Exfoliants Explained: AHAs, BHAs, PHAs

If your skin ever looks dull, rough, or uneven, exfoliation might be the missing step in your routine. Exfoliants remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and make room for new, healthier cells to shine through. But with so many options—AHAs, BHAs, PHAs—it can get confusing.

This guide explains the differences between chemical exfoliants, how to use them safely, and how they work alongside other skincare staples like Moisturizers: What Works & Why and Retinoids: Benefits & Side Effects.

What Is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface. Without it, those cells can build up, making your skin look rough, flaky, or congested. There are two main methods:

• Physical exfoliation → scrubs, brushes, or cloths.
• Chemical exfoliation → acids that dissolve dead skin cells.

Chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs, PHAs) are gentler and more effective for long-term results.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They work on the surface of the skin, making them best for dryness, dullness, and uneven tone.

Best for: Dry, normal, and sun-damaged skin.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)

BHAs are oil-soluble acids, meaning they penetrate pores to clear oil and debris.

Best for: Oily, acne-prone, or combination skin

PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)

PHAs are the gentlest group of chemical exfoliants. Their larger molecules prevent them from penetrating deeply, so they work on the surface only.

Best for: Sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea-prone skin.

How to Use Exfoliants

1–2 times per week.

then follow with toner/serum/moisturizer.

exfoliation increases sun sensitivity.

to prevent dryness and maintain barrier. See: Moisturizers Hub.

Exfoliants & Retinoids: Can You Combine Them?

Both exfoliants and retinoids speed up cell turnover, which is why combining them can sometimes cause irritation.

Tips:

• Alternate nights → exfoliants one night, retinoids the next.
• Patch test new products before full use.
• Pair both with moisturizer to buffer irritation.

Learn more about retinoid safety and usage in Retinoids: Benefits & Side Effects.

Common Mistakes with Exfoliants

• Over-exfoliating → leads to redness, peeling, or sensitivity.
• Mixing too many actives → like AHA + BHA + retinoids all in one night.
• Skipping SPF → freshly exfoliated skin is extra vulnerable to sun damage.

Choosing the Right Exfoliant for You

• Dry skin → AHAs (glycolic or lactic acid).
• Oily/acne-prone → BHAs (salicylic acid).
• Sensitive → PHAs.
• Combination → Rotate AHAs and BHAs depending on skin needs.

Lifestyle Factors That Boost Exfoliation Results

Exfoliants aren’t a cure-all—they work best when combined with healthy habits:

• Eat antioxidant-rich foods (berries, leafy greens).
• Stay hydrated.
• Get adequate sleep for overnight cell repair.
• Manage stress to reduce inflammation.

Conclusion

Exfoliation is one of the fastest ways to refresh your skin, but only if done correctly. AHAs brighten, BHAs clear pores, and PHAs gently smooth sensitive skin. Used wisely, they transform dull or congested skin into a radiant complexion.

To get the most out of your exfoliants:

• Always follow with a hydrating Moisturizer to protect your barrier.
• Learn how to alternate with Retinoids for powerful anti-aging and acne-fighting results.

With the right balance, exfoliation can become your skin’s best friend—not its enemy.

FAQ: Your Skin Questions, Answered